A Memoir of Murshidabad –Bengal’s Bygone Historical Epoch

While planning for our Puja vacation, our mind started wandering. It was primarily because we have not made any significant peregrination for long enough and also because of the fact that deliberating on a tour itself always is an energizer for a thirsty soul willing to run away from the hustle and bustle of city dwelling.

Time space was not enough for a long trip yet not very short one also.  We had got 5 days for our tour. After a lot of argumentation and deliberation between two of us, brothers, as to where to head for, we have decided to visit Murshidabad. The reason propelling our decision apart from its being a historical city, which we were contemplating to visit, we have had a nostalgic connection to this place. Our father spent his childhood days in Murshidabad. He used to narrate stories of the place and those narratives left some delightful impression of Murshidabad in our childhood days which we wanted to relieve.

We boarded Bhagirathi Express from Sealdah on 26^th September and headed for our journey.  The train reached its destination at around 10.15 p.m., 25 minutes after scheduled arrival. Disembarking, we hired a tuk-tuk (toto, called locally) and reached hotel, which was not very far and was close to the Local Bus Terminus. Though the hotel was very average in terms of everything except the price, we adjusted as it was night time and we were looking forward for our forthcoming itinerary rather than hotel hopping.

We started early next day and headed for our starting point Tripolia Gate.  This structure marking as entry gate just before Hazarduari Palace Campus. It is just 1.5 Km. north-west to Murshidabad Railway Station and the road is currently known as Siraj Ud-Doullah Road. This gate was originally built with a purpose to welcome the then nawabs. Architecturally, it is a representation of Islamic structure, though lost its significance in absence of proper maintenance and presentation towards the visiting tourists.

Crossing the Tripolia Gate, we entered Hazarduari Palace premises, Kila Nizamat.

Picture Courtesy: Wikipedia

As history goes, during the Nawabi reign, this was the site of the old fort of Murshidabad, on the eastern bank of Bhagirathi River. The fort was demolished to build this grand palace. Earlier it used to be referred as Bara Kothi (Grand Palace). Currently, Kila Nizamat refers to the campus where the palace is located. This campus also houses Nizamat Imambara,  Murshidabad Clock Tower,  Madina Mosque, Chawk Masjid, Bacchawali Tope,  the Shia Complex, Wasif Manzil, the two Zurud Mosques - one on the east of the palace and the other one between the Wasif Manzil and the south gate of the palace - and the Nawab Bahadur's Institution (or, Nizamat College) surrounding it. Tourists call the Hazarduari Palace the Nizamat Kila or the Kila Nizamat.

The total area of the campus including the palace is astoundingly well over 41 acres. The name ‘Hazarduari’ stands for ‘Hazar’ = Thousand and ‘Duari’ = the one with doors and thus it is a palace with thousand doors. However, in order to deceive enemies and as a part of security measure, 100 doors are simulated.  Built by architect Colonel Duncan Macleod during the reign of the then Nawab of Bengal, Bihar and Orissa  Nazim Humayun Jah, this amazing structure is an amalgamation of 19^th Century Italian and Doric Style. This three storied palace, is purely visitors delight, be you are a history fanatic or not. Currently maintained by Archaeological survey of India, this palace has been transformed into a museum, housing 19 galleries in which painting, relics and all kinds of historical mementos of nawab’s era has been amassed for tourists and enthusiasts. It took us more than four hours, though the top floor and few other galleries were not available for viewers, to just glance through the galleries. Marvelled with the structural beauty of the palace and enthralled by the collections it holds, we headed for Nizamat Imambara.

Re-built by Nawab Nazim Mansur Ali Khan in 1847, after fire incinerated the old one,  Nizamat Imambara stand just opposite to Hazarduari Palace,  is the largest one not only in Bengal but in India. Though remains closed for ordinary visitors mostly throughout the year, we were fortunate to have a glimpse inside of it since it was accessible due to Muhharram. We got a chance to have a look at the new Madina Mosque, standing at the central quadrangle of the Imambara. The structure is not maintained as in the case of Hazarduari though, but part of history relieving in front of us was heart warming.

Walking along the campus, we have had a look at the old Madina Mosque, Bacchawali Tope, Clock Tower, Chawk Masjid, Yellow Mosque. The old Madina Mosque, built by Nawab Siraj Ud-Doullah is said to be containing soil from Mecca mixed at its foundation, to provide the opportunity to poorer members of local Muslim community to have an experience of Hajj. Bacchawali Tope, literally meaning the cannon which produces child birth is currently located at the east of the old Madina Mosque is said to be manufactured in between 12^th and 14^th Centuy.  the clock tower was originally built by Sagor Mistry, native assistant of Colonel Duncan Macleod, the chief architect of the Hazarduari Palace. It is standing in east of Old Madina Mosque facing west towards the Bhagirathi river.

Chawk Masjid, one of the most important mosque alongwith its vicinity in Murshidabad, was built in 1767 A.D.  by Munni Begum, wife of Mir Jafar. The name derived from shopping place in its vicinity, which is called ‘Chawk’ in urdu.

Walking down the bank of Bhagirathi, we reached Wasif Manzil. As history states, this palace was built by Nawab Wasif Ali Mirza Khan. It is situated between the south gate and Hazarduari Palace. We could not enter the palace since the caretaker told us presently due to some legal issues visitors’ entries are restricted. The palace is lying in dilapidated state for the lack of proper upkeep.

The sun was setting down and it was time for us to return to our sojourn.

We started the next day from Lalbagh hiring a tanga (Horse Carriage), just to have a feel of nawabi period!!

Our first visit of the day was to Kathgola (Kathgola Palace Picture above). A huge area of 30 acres with a palace known as Kathgola palace,  Adinath Temple, a zoo and lots of statues along with Mango Orchard and other various trees to be found in this place. It is indeed a very beautiful place for picnickers as well as for history lovers, specially the museum inside the palace. This garden was built by Laxmipat Singh Dugar. There is an underground tunnel just beside the palace. Earlier it used to connect the garden with the house of Jagat Seth but now closed down since the river water is flooded the tunnel permanently.

After Kathgola, we headed for House of Jagat Seth, the then financial epicentre of Bengal, Bihar and Odisha. A maze of tunnels entwined under the building structure converted into museum and all kinds of armours, artefacts and of course pecuniary items then prevailing were in display. After completed visiting the palace we headed for Nashipur Raj Bari (Nashipur Palace) and on the way stopped over at Nashipur Akhara (Sri Raghunathji Temple). This place, though one of the least visited points, has its own history.  There is a Temple of Sri Raghunath Dev Ji inside the Akhara,  where every year Jhulan Yatra and the famous fair is held. Many precious utensils and a chariot made out of pure silver are on display. A vintage car bought at only Rs.80/- during the nawabi period is also visitors delight.

Our next destination was Nashipur Rajbari (Picture above). Built by Devi Singh, historically renowned for being the ruthless tax collector under the British, the original palace is a small one and is adjacent to the current palace. The current palace though was originally built by Raja Kirti Chandra Singha in 1856. This palace is often referred to as the miniature version of Hazarduari Palace, due to the similarity in structure. Presently though, except the façade, rest of the palace is in pretty bad shape due to lack of proper maintenance.

On the way to our next destination, i.e.  Jafarganj Cemetery, we passed by Jafarganj Deorhi (picture above), infamous by the name of Namak Haram Deorhi or ‘Traitor’s Gate’. Earlier this gate used to be the entry gate of Mir Jafar’s palace. Currently though, nothing has left inside except this entry gate. Public entry is prohibited inside the gate. It is said that since Mir Jafar and his son Miran’s act of betrayal to Siraj has led to the permanent establishment of British Rule in India and also the final conspiracy of betrayal was enacted inside this premises, the name given to it quietly signifies it.

Jafarganj Cemetery (picture above) was built by Mir Jafar within an enclosure of more than 3.5 acre of land inside the premises of Namak Haram Deori. The graves of Najafi dynasty starting from Mir Jafar, his family member and later nawabs of Bengal are lying here.  

Azim-Un-Nisah, daughter of Murshid Quli Khan and one of the wives of Shuja-ud-Din Muhammad Khan is said to be addicted to liver of human child. Myth is, she once fell ill and was prescribed to have medicines prepared from the liver of human child. She gradually got addicted to it. When her father come to know about the fact, he buried her alive and built a mosque surrounded by a beautiful rose garden atop the grave. It is said, Murshid Quli Khan built the stairs of the mosque on top of the grave for her daughter’s soul to get afterlife clemency from the sins she committed in her life with every footfall on it.

 

However, according to historians she herself built the mosque and garden and wished, like her father, for burial of her body beneath the stairs of the mosque.

 

Furthermore, presently only the remnant of the mosque is to be seen since it is said that the entire mosque was washed away during floods hundreds of years ago. But from the remaining it is evident how beautiful it used to be.

 

Visiting the Tomb of Azim-Un-Nisah, we headed for Jahan Kosha Cannon and on the way we dropped by at Fauti Mosque. Absolutely dilapidated structure and surrounded by jungle weeds this place is far from generating any visitor’s interest.  Building of this mosque was started by Nawab Sarfaraz Khan in 1740 A.D. It is located at Kumapur. It is said to be built in one night. However, before completion of the entire structure, the nawab died in a battle with Nawab Alivardi Khan and since then it has been left incomplete. 

Jahan Kosha Cannon (picture above) is a testimony of metallurgical skill of Bengal in 17^th Century. As per the inscription on it and nearby notification by Archaeological Survey of India, it was fabricated by Bengali Blacksmith Janardan in the year 1637 A.D. during the reign of Shah Jahan at the instance of Subadar Islam Khan. This mammoth cannon is made of 8 metals namely silver, gold, lead, copper, zinc, tin, iron and mercury. It weighs more than 7 Tons and measures 5.5 Mtr. In length.

Awestruck by the metallurgical brilliance, we moved towards our next destination Katra Masjid or Katra Mosque (picture above). Built between 1723 and 1724 by architect Murad Farash Khan, a devoted follower of Murshid Quli Khan, this mosque apart from being the centre of Islamic learning, historically important for being the tomb of Murshid Quli Khan, buried under the entrance staircase. This mosque is situated to the north-eastern side of Murshidabad. It is said that reaching his old age, Quli Khan expressed his desire to be buried adjacent to a mosque and entrusted his follower architect Murad Farash Khan to build this mosque. He then built this mosque in a market or Katra and hence it was name Katra Masjid.             

Our last destination for the day was Motijhil. This horse shoe shape lake was excavated by Nawazish Muhammad Khan, the son-in-law of Nawab Alivardi Khan and husband of Ghaseti Begum. He also constructed a palace known as the Motijhil Palace as his residence.  Etymologically the name Motijhil means Moti=Pearl and Jhil (or Jheel) = Lake, Pearl Lake, since pearl used to be cultured at this lake. After Nawazish and the fall of Siraj, Lord Clive and later in the year of 1771 Warren Hastings used to stay here. Currently though, the palace seize to exists. However, due to its affinity with British officials, this place is often referred as ‘Company Bagh’ or Company Garden.

 

In the vicinity of the lake, there is Kala Masjid, built by Nawazish Muhammad with black basalt brought from the ruins of Gaur. Opposite to the Mosque and within a small enclosure, there lies the tombs of by Nawazish Muhammad, Ekram-ud-Doula (brother of Siraj), Ekram’s tutor, Shumsheree Ali Khan (Nawazish’s General) nurse of Ekram.  

 

Presently, on another side of the lake, a new theme park with modern amenities has been opened by Bengal Govt.

 

Tired yet Cheerful by learning the past history of Bengal, we headed back to our by evening, not mention eagerly awaiting next day’s itinerary.

 The next day starts from Lalbagh ferry ghat (known as sadar ghat) crossing Bhagirathi River reaching to the west bank.

Khoshbagh (picture above) was our destination. Built by first nawab of Bengal, Nawab Alivardi Khan, this beautiful, over 7.5 acres of garden area is an enclosure hoding the grave of Nawab Alivardi Khan, Alivardi’s mother, Nawab Siraj-ud-Doula, his aunt Ghaseti Begum, his cousin, 17 of his family members, his wife Luft-un-Nisa and his little daughter.

 

This beautiful garden also houses a mosque built by Nawab Alivardi, on the lines of Jama Masjid of Delhi.

Our next destination was Char Bangla Mandir (picture above). One of the finest examples of Bengal style of architecture of terracotta, this temple is Situated at Baranagore,Azimgunj, opposite the west bank of Bhagirathi, a mile from Azimgunj Railway station. Char Bangla temple and other temples in the vicinity are attributed to queen of Natore, Rani Bhavani. With a plan to built a ‘Varanasi’ in Bengal she was the prime mover of temple innovation and aesthetics in 18^th Century Murshidabad. The main attraction of Baranagore is Char Bangla mandir complex. Built in 1760, this is a small square arena fenced by four massive temples. Each temple is ‘dochala’ (two roofed) and having three arched doors with three Lord Shiva icons in it. Each of the temples are higly decorated with ornamented brick work displaying Hindu epics and puranas. Due to lack of proper maintenance, most of the beautiful brick work though looking very much dilapidated.

The Shiva temple of Bhabaneswar (picture above) was built by Tarasundari, daughter of Rani Bhavani, in 1755. This temple when we reached was closed, so could not have a view inside. Nonetheless, the brick work from outside was awesome for a view.

From Azimgunj, we headed back towards Cossimbazar for our next destination lying just beside the Railway track of Cossimbazar Railway Station. Dutch Cemetery is a graveyard which contains 43 monuments dating from 1721 AD to 1792 Ad, the oldest being that of Danyl Van der Muyl, who died in 1721 AD.  Only a few of the graves are in good state else others succumbed to jungle weeds.

After seeing the Dutch cemetery, we headed for Cossimbazar New Palace or Choto Rajbari. This beautiful palace was established by Dinobondhu Roy during the reign of Nawab Alivardi Khan. There is an entry fee of Rs. 20/- to the palace. Inside there is a museum, a Durga Mandir and a Laxmi Narayan temple.

Our tour ended for the day as evening set in and we returned to our sojourn.

Next day, our last day of the itinerary, as planned we left the hotel early, to board a local train from Murshidabad Railway Station and headed for the place, where in 1757, after a bloody battle preceded by filthy conspiracy, mother India was incarcerated for 190 long years to the British rulers.  It took us a little over an hour to reach Plassey. From the station we took a motor van and on our route came a place where we saw a gate is being under construction and on enquiry we came to know that this gate is being built as the entry gate of Plassey Monument.

Presently, Plassey is far from the mango orchard, a village on the riverbank of Bhagirathi River, where the famous battle of Plassey was fought. Currently Plassey falls in Nadia District of West Bengal.  There is a monument, commonly known as Palashi Monument (picture above) established in memoirs of the martyrs of the battle. The ground where the Battle was fought is today marked with shrines, obelisks and memorials to the fallen generals and soldiers of Siraj Ud-Daulah. A set of three obelisks marks homage to the spot where Bakshi Mir Madan (the chief of the Nawab's artillery),  Bahadur Ali Khan (Commander of Musketeers) and Nauwe Singh Hazari (the Captain of Artillery) were killed in the battle (picture below). 

The places though lying forgotten and ill-maintained and the sad part is tourist often ignore these places and refer history of Murshidabad only by Hazarduari Palace.

 With a feel of contentment after a revisit to history of Bengal in the reign of nawabs, we returned back to Plassey station for our onward journey to Kolkata.